On Sunday 4th August, members and friends of Sommeliers Australia gathered at Osteria Ilaria for the long-anticipated event, Warriors of Wine 2024.
This year, the friendly contenders were Abhi Ayare (Reine and La Rue), Marie Pousse (Circl Wine House), and Justin Howe (Osteria Ilaria).
MC Evan Milne (Stock on Hand), is responsible for creating this event, having organised the inaugural Warriors of Wine event in 2008. Each year, this event serves to raise funds ‘to support the education and professional development of our members, which is at the core of what we do’ said Sommeliers Australia President, Sarah Andrew.
Event format
The format of the event involves each of the three warriors selecting one wine to match each of the three courses. The three wines are presented to diners alongside courses, and each participating sommelier is asked to introduce their wine, in less than one minute, to all the diners.
At the close of each course, each guest is asked to award the wine pairings in order of preference in a Brownlow-style. Each warrior was assigned a different colour, and for the first place, a diner would award three tokens, second place – two tokens, and third place – one token. At the end of each course, the Sommeliers Australia committee counted each of the coloured tokens and the winner of each round was announced.
During the course of the meal, diners were invited to purchase raffle tickets, and the generously donated prizes were presented towards the end of the lunch, followed by an auction, which this year was once again brilliantly executed by Loic Avril, who worked the room with an abundance of charisma in his role as auctioneer.
The courses and pairings
Upon arrival, diners were welcomed with a glass of NV Holly’s Garden Uberbrut from Whitlands, Victoria alongside canapes.
First course: Kingfish crudo, watermelon radish, Colatura dressing
Abhi: 2019 Lethbridge ‘Dr Nadeson’ Riesling, Henty, Victoria (magnum)
Marie: 2022 Borgo Paglianetto Verdicchio di Matelica Petrara, Marche, Italy
Justin: 2022 Latta Landsborough Riesling, Pyrenees, Victoria
Round 1 discussion: All three participants honoured the delicate nature of the kingfish in their wine selections. Abhi and Justin selected two very distinct Riesling wines. Firstly, the Lethbridge Riesling had lifted florals, which really complemented the vibrancy of this dish. This contrasted to Justin’s selection of the fine lines and contours of the Latta Riesling. These wines demonstrated a clear difference in Riesling from two Victorian wine regions and producers, both very appropriate and excellent selections for this course. Marie’s choice of Verdicchio was well considered, in that the Colatura dressing (an ancient anchovy sauce deriving from the South-west coast of Italy), was partnered beautifully with the salinity and savoury elements of the Verdicchio variety.
Round one scores: Joint 1st: Justin and Abhi, 2nd: Marie
Second course: Smoked ricotta tortelli, fermented green tomato, Geraldton Wax oil, ricotta crumb
Abhi: 2023 by Wilmee Fiano, Heathcote, Victoria
Marie: 2022 Entropy Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Gippsland, Victoria
Justin: 2022 Envinate Benje Bianco, Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain
Round two discussion: This was a strong round across the board. Each warrior’s selection was harmonious alongside this standout dish, with its unique flavour profile. Abhi leant into the Italian origins of the dish, while keeping his selection local. The waxy texture of the Fiano and the beautiful acidity of the Wilmee Fiano really shone. As for Marie, also celebrating Victoria, she opted for the wonderful Entropy Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blend, which was a smart pairing, as it beautifully highlighted the dish with its aromatics and citrus notes. As for Justin’s selection, the flor-influence of the Envinate Beje Bianco added interest and partnered expertly with the unique flavours of the dish.
Round two scores: 1st: Justin, 2nd: Marie, 3rd: Abhi
Third course: Sher Wagyu rostbiff steak, bitter leaves, beef jus
Abhi: 2023 Bindi ‘Pyrette’ Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria
Marie: 2020 Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grezeaux, Loire Valley, France
Justin: 2021 N.Badel Rochgrand Syrah, Northern Rhone, France
Round three discussion: As Evan declared during the lunch, this round of red wines had the potentially to change the course of the competition. Abhi, who committed to selecting only Victorian wines throughout his wine choices, paired Bindi’s iconic Heathcote ‘Pyrette’ Shiraz with the wagyu. This wine was incredibly well integrated, and wonderfully complemented the bitter leaves. The tannins weaved well into the char of the wagyu beef, and this was a strong starter. Secondly, Marie’s Chinon selection played on the herbaceous character of the dish, and the delicate attributes, and the gentle earthiness of Cabernet Franc were very clearly on display. Closing out the round, Justin Howe presented a Northern Rhone Syrah which demonstrated poise and a great deal of typicity. Once again varietally aligned with Abhi, this Syrah made a beautiful, and harmonious partnership with this course.
Round three scores: 1st: Marie, 2nd: Justin, 3rd: Abhi
During the auction, Milawa cheese company very kindly donated the David Brown Select Cheddar matured for three years, the Milawa aged Blue matured for 6 months, and the Milawa brie, which were enjoyed alongside a selection of Rutherglen Muscat while the final scores were counted, and this year’s warrior was announced…
Warrior of Wine 2024
Evan concluded that Justin’s selections ‘leaned into clarity and precision, providing the most profound matches across two of his selections’. Meanwhile, ‘Abhi championed Victorian wine, demonstrating that it is truly world class’. Marie deservedly won the title of “Warrior of Wine”, with her ‘classic selections and exceptional delivery’ when introducing her wines before each course. Marie commented ‘it’s beautiful to see how such an event sharing food and wine can really bring people together – what an amazing day.’
Thank you
Sommeliers Australia would like to take this opportunity to thank all members and guests who attended the lunch and participated in our fundraising efforts. As a result of our generous supporters, the event raised over $8000 to facilitate the 2025 Education Scholarship (details to be announced in 2025).
‘Congratulations to all three of our Warriors and to those who joined in the fun of this love letter to hospitality and the art of the sommelier,’ said Evan.
We would like to encourage all wine industry members to become a member of Sommeliers Australia, as the not-for-profit continues to support the hospitality industry. We rely on our members support and donations to maintain regular programming of events and we invite proposals for collaboration and support.
Sommeliers Australia extends thanks to the following businesses for supporting the ‘Warriors of Wine’ Sommeliers Long Lunch:
Osteria Ilaria – Milawa Cheese Co – Holly’s Garden – Winemakers of Rutherglen – Alimentaria – Bibendium Wine Co – Enoteca Sydney – High Hopes Wine Company – Bindi – Halle Aux Vins – Principal – Wilimee – Bindi – Amaru Melbourne – Baked Wonder – Bellbrae Estate – Lightfoot – Reno – Brand Bite – Books for Cooks – Castlerose – Chandon – Coravin – Devil Bend Farm Beer – Halliday – Hardie Grant – Lucas – Morena – Riedel – South Yarra Cellars – The Walrus – Upstairs Cellar – Torbreck
